First, we’d like to thank all those who sent congratulations for our new French nationality status!
Having spent some happy hours in Saint Jean d’Angèly (see previous posts) and found a good restaurant, we headed westward. We’d been told that Saint Savinien was worth visiting, and so indeed it proved to be. In fact we were very grateful for the tip because it’s not a town that advertises its presence. Because it is nestled down along the banks of the Charente, in the valley, it’s very easy to overlook it. There are some charming buildings and picturesque streets, but the dominant feature is the Charente river.
This is not just a rather pretty river but until relatively recently was important economically. The town is first mentioned as a port at the end of the 13th century, but by the 18th, it was actually known as Saint Savinien le Port. Masonry stone, timber, wine and eau de vie (a high strength Cognac-type spirit) were among the products shipped down the Charente from Angoulême to the coast, to be sent on to other parts of France or abroad. Nowadays the only port is a ‘miniature’ one on a lake and the river seems to be entirely used by pleasure craft. Needless to say, on a cold February day, there weren’t many people messing about in boats.
We climbed up to the church of Saint Savinien, which stands above the limestone cliffs behind the river. In an area not short of big churches, this is actually quite impressive.
One notable feature of the exterior is attractive stylised statues of the twelve apostles. Judas takes his place but is turned facing the opposite direction, away from the church.
One other feature that we didn’t have time to explore is the town’s long Protestant history. In general, in Charente Maritime, the closer you get to the coast the more important the Protestant heritage is, with the centre of the faith at La Rochelle, enduring until it was taken in 1627-28. In Saint Savinien there remains a Protestant temple, that curious word used to distinguish Huguenot places of worship from Catholic ones. There’s also a Protestant graveyard. Some time, on a warm summer’s day, we will make the trip over and spend a bit more time there.
Statures inside and outside the church, and by the river
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